In depth
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Area guide
Ubud: rice fields, river gorges and the arts
The palace and the market, the painters’ museums, the Monkey Forest and the rice terraces, with the resorts and tasting menus of the valleys around.

Area guide · Bali
The palace and the art market, the painters’ museums, the Monkey Forest and the terraces, with the resorts and tasting menus of the valleys around.
Area guide
The palace and the market, the painters’ museums, the Monkey Forest and the rice terraces, with the resorts and tasting menus of the valleys around.
The bathing pools
The temple of the holy spring at Tampaksiring, where people bathe in the purification pools.
The Elephant Cave
The Elephant Cave near Ubud: a carved cave mouth, bathing pools and a ravine.
Dance in the courtyard
The palace of Ubud’s royal family in the centre of town, where dances are performed in the courtyard in the evening.
Temples in the forest
A forest of temples and long-tailed macaques on the southern edge of Ubud, run by the village of Padangtegal.
Jalan Monkey Forest, UbudExplore View on map
The island’s yoga capital
Ubud is the island’s centre for yoga, from hotel shalas to the wellness programmes of COMO Shambhala and Fivelements.
Balinese painting
A museum of Balinese and Indonesian painting in gardens on the south side of Ubud.
Jalan Raya Pengosekan, UbudExplore View on map
The palace of paintings
Ubud’s museum of Balinese painting and woodcarving, in gardens in the centre of town.
The painters of Bali
A museum of painting in Bali, from the classical Kamasan style to the 20th-century painters who lived on the island.
Every evening
Traditional dances are performed every evening in Ubud, in the courtyard of the palace and on village stages.
Each autumn
A literary festival that brings writers from Indonesia and the world to Ubud each autumn.
Silver, wood and paint
On the road from Denpasar to Ubud: Celuk for silver, Mas for woodcarving and Batuan for painting.
North of Ubud
The terraces in a steep valley north of Ubud, the island’s most visited.
On foot
A paved path along a grassy ridge between two river valleys, starting by the Campuhan bridge.
More than a restaurant
The team behind Locavore, now at Lodtunduh: tasting menus built on their own farm, lab and growers.
Lodtunduh, Ubud, Gianyar 80571Explore View on map
French technique, Indonesian produce
A long-running fine-dining restaurant in a garden at Sanggingan, cooking French-style tasting menus with Indonesian produce.
At Viceroy Bali
Viceroy Bali’s fine-dining restaurant and bar, in a dining room in the style of the 1920s.
Br. Nagi, Jl. Lanyahan, Petulu, Ubud, Gianyar 80571Explore View on map
A menu of desserts
Will Goldfarb’s dessert tasting menu in Ubud, with cocktails from its garden.
Bamboo cocoons by the river
Mandapa’s riverside restaurant, where tables sit in bamboo cocoons beside the Ayung and the rice fields.
Jalan Kedewatan, Banjar Kedewatan, Ubud, Gianyar 80571Explore View on map
All day in central Ubud
Modern Indonesian cooking in a two-storey house on Jalan Sri Wedari, open from lunch to late.
Jl. Sri Wedari No.5, Ubud, Bali 80571Explore View on map

On the Campuhan bridge
A restaurant and wine bar on several levels beside the old bridge at Campuhan, looking down into the river gorge.
Jl. Raya Campuhan, UbudExplore View on map
Ubud’s roaster
A roastery and café in Ubud, serving Indonesian single-origin coffees.
Shoes off
A café on Jalan Hanoman in Ubud, where you leave your shoes at the door, with juices and a long vegetarian-friendly menu.
Jl. Hanoman No. 8, UbudExplore View on map
Cocktails in the hills
The cocktail bar of Apéritif at Viceroy Bali, open to non-residents.
Br. Nagi, Jl. Lanyahan, Petulu, Ubud, Gianyar 80571Explore View on map
Opposite the palace
The market opposite the Ubud Palace, selling sarongs, baskets, carvings and souvenirs.
Above the Ayung gorge
Aman’s Ubud resort: suites in walled village compounds above the Ayung river gorge, with a pool that follows the terraced rice fields.

On the Ayung river
A Ritz-Carlton Reserve on the banks of the Ayung, with villas, a spa and Kubu, its restaurant in bamboo cocoons by the rice fields.
Jalan Kedewatan, Banjar Kedewatan, Ubud, Gianyar 80571Explore View on map

In the Ayung valley
The Four Seasons in the Ayung valley at Sayan, entered across a bridge to a lotus pond on its roof.
A camp in the rainforest
Luxury tents in the rainforest at Keliki, north of Ubud, designed by Bill Bensley.
A wellness estate
COMO’s wellness retreat above the Ayung at Begawan, with programmes of yoga, treatments and healthy cooking.
Close to the town
A smaller COMO resort at Sanggingan, a short way from the centre of Ubud.
Above the Pakerisan
Hoshino Resorts’ villas above the Pakerisan river, each with a canal-like pool at its door.
Home of Apéritif
Pool villas above the Petanu river valley at Petulu, with Apéritif, its fine-dining restaurant.
Br. Nagi, Jl. Lanyahan, Petulu, Ubud, Gianyar 80571Explore View on map
Hotel spa
A wellness retreat on the Ayung river, with healing programmes and plant-based cuisine.
Stayed in the hills? Tell the next visitor which walk, warung or dance was worth it.