UltimateIsland Guide Bali
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Stories from Bali, Indonesia

Every story, long read and guide in the ULTIMATE Bali Island Guide, in one place.

Areas

Bali, area by area

Seven areas, each with its own guide: Ubud in the hills, the sunsets of Seminyak, the surf of Canggu, the cliffs of the Bukit, Jimbaran’s bay, the calm beaches of Nusa Dua and the sunrise shore of Sanur.

Terraced rice fields and palms at Bedulu, near Ubud, under white cloudsArea guideUbudRice fields, gorges and the artsColoured umbrellas and beanbags on Seminyak beach at sunsetArea guideSeminyak & PetitengetSunsets, boutiques and the restaurant rowPura Tanah Lot on its rock in the sea, with thatched shrines and trees, in late-afternoon lightArea guideCanggu & BerawaSurf and rice fieldsThe tiered shrine of Pura Luhur Uluwatu at the edge of its cliff above the Indian OceanArea guideUluwatu & the BukitCliffs, surf and the temple at the edgeGrilled fish, prawns and clams from a seafood restaurant at JimbaranArea guideJimbaranThe bay and the fish grills

Hills and coast

Split your stay: three or four nights in the hills around Ubud, then the rest by the sea.

  1. Area guideNusa DuaCalm beaches and grand resorts
  2. Area guideSanurSunrise and the boats

Practical

Before you go

The e-VOA and the levy you pay before you land, the Day of Silence, how to dress for a temple, and itineraries that work.

The arrivals hall of Ngurah Rai International Airport, with gold-screened columnsBefore you goBali essentialsThe e-VOA, the levy, money and 112Young men carrying a giant ogoh-ogoh effigy on a bamboo frameNyepiThe Day of SilenceMonday 8 March 2027Canang sari offerings of flowers and palm leaves with incense on a pavementEtiquetteVisiting templesSarongs, offerings and respectCarved stone guardian figures before the gilded pavilions of Pura Tirta EmpulItineraryBali in four daysThe hills and the cliffsThe three-tiered pool of Amankila stepping down towards the Lombok StraitLuxury guideLUX LivingThe finest addresses
  1. ItineraryThe Platinum weekendAmandari, Bulgari and the Kecak

Our advice

Pay the levy on the official site

Bali’s IDR 150,000 tourist levy is paid on lovebali.baliprov.go.id, and the e-VOA on evisa.imigrasi.go.id. Look-alike sites charge more; use only the official ones. Bali essentials

Day trips

Day trips from the south

The Nusa islands are a fast boat from Sanur; the east, the highlands and the caldera of Batur are a day by car, and the north is worth a night.

The coast of Nusa Lembongan from the air, with surf on the rocks and Nusa Penida beyondDay tripThe Nusa islandsCliffs and mantasWorshippers in white climbing the great stairway between the split gates of Pura BesakihDay tripEast BaliBeneath Mount AgungThe terraces of Jatiluwih sweeping towards the volcanoes of BatukaruDay tripThe highlandsLakes and terracesMount Batur and its black lava fields beside Lake Batur, seen from the caldera rimDay tripMount Batur & KintamaniThe caldera at dawnMangroves reflected in the still water of West Bali National Park, with the volcanoes of Java behind at duskDay tripNorth & West BaliHills, waterfalls and reefs

Our advice

Allow for the roads

Distances on Bali are short and journeys are long: book a driver for the day through your hotel, and start early for Besakih, Jatiluwih or Batur. Drivers & boats

In depth

In depth: Bali’s stories

The temples, the island’s table, its dancers and painters, its resorts, getting around and where to buy: the stories behind Bali.

A Bali starling, white with a blue eye mask, on a branch in West Bali National ParkIn depth: nature & wildlifeWild BaliStarlings, monkeys, mantas and reefsA plate of Balinese nasi campur with rice, vegetables and sambal on banana leavesIn depthBali at the tableTasting menus, warungs and the beach grillLegong dancers in gold headdresses and brocade on stage in UbudIn depthPainters, dancers and the gamelanBali’s arts

Every morning

Watch your step: the small palm-leaf offerings on the pavement, canang sari, are placed fresh each day.

  1. In depthWhere Bali sleepsRiver valleys, clifftops and the beach
  2. In depthGetting to and around BaliThe airport, drivers and boats
  3. In depthBuying in BaliWhat foreigners can own
  4. Fun factsBali fun factsThings you might not know

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